Day 307: Bam-Bam-Bamiyan 8/9 - 10/9

Bamian

I stayed at the Hotel Zohak (Zuhak) for AFN 500 per night. The review in the LP is now well out of date. The showerhead is still there but the shower is dry - in fact the hotel no longer has running water; it gets its supply by bucket from a hose on the street. However, it's probably still the pick of the budget accommodation. The people running it are friendly and keen to be of service. Some speak a little English.

Bamian has no mains electricity. The hotel runs its generator for a few hours each evening, during which time you can charge your electrical devices.

Meals cost 100-120. They will whip up whatever you order, if they have the makings. Prices at the
chaikhanas are similar.

The nearest hammam I found was a "shower hall" about 10 minutes east, near the end of the street. AFN 40 for a real shower with abundant hot water. I would wash my dirty clothes by soaking them in the bucket while I showered.

The "Business Centre" appears to have evaporated. There was an internet place ("Bam Net") on the north side of the bazaar that posted its hours on its door, but what hours it was actually open were a secret known only to God. I managed to get in one half-hour session on my first day; thereafter it was always closed when I came by.

Sights - the LP mentions a combined ticket for the Buddhas, City of Screams, and the fortress where Genghis Khan's grandson was slain. The man outside the ticket office at the larger Buddha said there were no tickets, then offered to let me in without one for AFN 200. Some Kabulis who were there just three months ago said the tickets were still available then so I suspect the attendant is simply lying and pocketing any such payments. I declined to line his pocket. I skipped the fortress but managed to see the City of Screams (an evocative and worthwhile site, despite the white-and-red stones lining the path warning you not to step off it) without a ticket.

Bamian to Kabul

I expected to pay about AFN 1000 to persuade a van to run me via the Shipar Pass, but ended up paying AFN 1500 for the entire back seat of a 4WD, a much quicker and more comfortable way to travel.

A cab from the northern transport hub where they dropped me to Shahr-e Nau cost AFN 200.